Hi Jeff,

Always good to hear from you. Sorry for the slow response, I actually just got back from a backpacking trip in the Sawtooths that overlapped much of the route you’re planning and it was excellent. If you change your mind and are interested in my Custom Trip Planning to get a specific itinerary for that area, including recommendations for several excellent campsites we stayed in or hiked past, drop me an email.

Otherwise, have an outstanding hike and I’d love to hear about it. Thanks for the comment.

Let me know if you see any obvious issues with this.
I know you have an article on your Queens River hike that hits this section of Spangle and Rock Island Lakes coming from the west side. Would you recommend that instead? I see that it is almost a 4 hour drive from Stanley to that Queens River TH, so I thought hitting these lakes from the east side (from Alice-Toxaway) made sense.
I realize that you offer custom trip planning as a service. I am not looking for anything remotely that detailed. Just either a thumbs up or a “hey I recommend the Queens River hike instead” type of response.
Thanks in advance!

Hi Amy,

Thanks for buying my e-books to backpacking the Teton Crest Trail and the best backpacking trip in Idaho’s Sawtooths, I appreciate that.

And it’s always nice to hear from someone in my first favorite mountain range, New Hampshire’s White Mountains! I get back there just about every year and I’m already planning my next hike there for this spring.

Yes, I wrote that Sawtooths e-book to intentionally focus on what I consider the most scenic core of the Sawtooths, entering from the east side and hiking trails between Redfish and Pettit lakes. I haven’t been in the mountains since last summer’s big fire (I’m planning a Sawtooths backpacking trip for this summer), but it looks like the area between Grandjean and Sawtooth Lake (on the west side of the mountains) was hit hard and may have less shade and more burned areas than before this fire. I’ve hiked in from Grandjean and it was always lower, hotter, and dustier than trailheads on the east side, and the fire may have compounded that.

Sawtooth Lake is beautiful and worth a half-day hike, if you have the extra time for that. As you probably know, I can give you a personalized trip plan for the Sawtooths. See my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how I can help you plan your trip.

Thanks for writing and good luck.

I just purchased your guide to planning a backpacking trip in the Sawtooths — thanks! What a great resource and I highly recommend it to anyone. I’ve been hiking on the TCT (again, used your awesome guide!) and did the Rae Lakes loop last summer with my family — looking forward to exploring the Sawtooths this summer.

Originally I had planned a trip starting and ending in Grandjean, just for ease of logistics. Your guide seems to base most things over in the Redfish / Pettit area. Is that the more scenic and best way to get into these amazing mountains, in your opinion? Didn’t know if I should try to include a trip to Sawtooth Lake, or are the other ones you mention more worth the trip? We’ve got about 7 days.

Thanks from the White Mountains!

Amy

Hi Adam,

Thanks. There are certainly many great backpacking options in the Sawtooths. I’m not sure what you consider the grand loop, but for my suggestions, you might start by looking at my e-book “The Best Backpacking Trip in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains.” And click here to learn how I can help you plan your Sawtooths trip, customizing an itinerary according to the type of trip you’re seeking.

I appreciate the question.

Great stuff. We’re looking at doing a 5-day backpacking trip in the Sawtooth’s mid-August. Would you recommend the grand loop? Any side trips you recommend? Thanks.

Hi Jamie,

Thanks for the kind words about my blog, glad you like it. Good question. The Sawtooths are generally not too dry anytime in summer; most creeks will have a good flow, water sources are generally fairly frequent (except when crossing passes, of course), and the lakes are always beautiful. It can get hot in the afternoon at the lower valley elevations in the Sawtooths, such as where you begin from Grandjean, but not oppressively or dangerously hot. Mosquitoes can be thick in July and into early August, especially around lakes, but no, not as thick as the High Sierra or Cascades. Mid-August is an ideal time to backpack in the Sawtooths: Wildflowers may still be widespread, especially higher up, mosquitoes have usually dissipated significantly, and the weather is generally stable, although you could see afternoon thunderstorms.

Good luck!

Hi William,

I don’t mind at all. I backpacked to Alice Lake with my son and a couple of friends in late June several years ago, when I shot the photos of Alice Lake in this story. As you can see, snow covered much of the ground around the lake; we encountered a solid snow cover at around 8,000 feet, well before reaching Alice Lake on the hike in. The snow cover in early summer varies significantly, depending on the winter and spring snowpack depth and how warm it gets in spring. But if you want to see snow in the Sawtooths and still be able to hike trails to relatively higher elevations without getting into a lot of snow on the trail, target the first or second week of July. If your timing is good, you’ll get there ahead of mosquito season.

Good luck and have a great trip. I’ve helped many readers plan a backpacking trip in the Sawtooths. See my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how I can help you plan yours.

May I be so bold as to ask in what month of the year you took the bottom picture of Alice Lake?

I am planning a trip for later this year and I am looking for some (but not too much) snow on the mountains.

Thank you.

Will

Hi Erin,

Thanks for the good questions and you’re exploring a really beautiful area of the Sawtooths. Yes, I’d agree that the direct trails from the trailhead at Pettit Lake to Edith and Edna lakes is the way to hike in and then finish by crossing the pass to descend to Toxaway Lake and head back that way. As for your second question, Spangle is a great spot, very pretty, where you’d see fewer people because it’s just more remote and harder to reach. Hidden Lake and the Cramer Lakes are also really pretty, as is the pass on the Cramer Divide between them, but you’ll definitely encounter more backpackers along those trails; plus, the hike up to Cramer Divide is harder than the hike to Spangle. That describes the main differences between those options.

Have a great hike! Keep in touch.

Hi John,

I’m very happy to had such a successful trip and have recovered so well from your heart problems. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and report and your concerns about human impact on the Sawtooths (and all popular backcountry areas). Everyone must make the small effort to walk at least 200 meters from all water bodies and trails to dig their cathole and do their business, then bury it sufficiently and carry out all used toilet paper.

This was also my first extended backpack trip since returning from trekking/climbing the two highest peaks in Mongolia (three others were denied by unseasonably wintery weather) in August of 2019. Then the pandemic and in early 2021 I was diagnosed with heart issues. Two and half years later, with the good fortune of a very good recovery from the heart issues, I was still filled with anxiety as I left home. Most of it was centered around the possibility of not being able to hike for five and then six days at elevations of up to 3000+ metres (10,000+ ft). That I had been to over 6200 metres (20,000+) previously meant nothing.

Our first hike we chose to hike the Pettit/Alice/Edna/Cramer/Baron/Redfish lakes route. Our rationale for starting at Pettit was a bunch of mainly 60+ (I am 73) sea level decided to ‘ease’ into the adventure. The hike to Alice Lake was a pleasant introduction to the Sawtooths. Shortly after crawling into our tents we welcomed by a nasty thunderstorm that lasted for about an hour clobbering us with hail and torrential rain. Before long I heard “I am flooded!” Scrambling out of my sleeping bag I joined my friends to find two of our party with soggy and floating tents. We quickly got them moved and helped sort out the soggy mess. It was getting too late to pack up and hike out so the dry folks shared clothes to help them get through the night in the best of comfort.

The morning brought sunshine which not only lifted soggy spirits but started to dry out wet gear. Our wet compatriots kept their spirits high and chose to continue on with our proposed itinerary. The weather and the landscape improved with each day.

I have had the good fortune to trek and backpack in several of the great mountain ranges on this planet, including the Alps, Himalaya, Andes, Karakorum, Rockies, Pamir and more. Except for the Karakorum, the Sawtooth are the most consistently dramatic and spectacular I have experienced. The magnificent peaks are complimented with some of the most stunning alpine lakes.

Completing the hike from Monday to Friday meant we missed the weekend crush but still met many people from various places in the US, especially folks from the East Coast who were reveling in the dramatic beauty.

Our adventure was not over. A couple days of rest and resupply around Stanley including a trip to Ketchum to pick up a new air mattress to replace mine that had started to leak. A couple times per night was manageable but within a couple days I was having to re-inflate the mattress five or more times.

Our White Clouds hike was an in-and-out affair as some of our folks did not want to engage in a loop that involved approximately a day and a half of route finding from the Windy Devil Pass at the head of the Chain Lakes Basin to the Fourth of July Lake.

The first couple days involved walking through extensive patch’s of burned forest. For me, burned forests are a mixed blessing. True the loss of a vibrant forest is tough to reconcile but fire is just one of Nature’s natural events that create rebirth of an ecosystem. An incredibly vital part of natural processes and vibrancy. Another benefit is we were offered many peek a boo views of the stately White Cloud mountains.

The White Clouds are more like a well written novel that builds. The beauty of jaw-dropping vistas builds and builds as one crosses pass after pass and works their way up to the end of the Chain Lakes Basin. From speaking with a few folks who had completed the Fourth of July Lake to Windy Devil Pass the climax was actually up there.

The White Clouds are less trammeled than the Sawtooths. That provided a special value to this area. While they are a stately mountain range they are not as consistently dramatic as the Sawtooth mountains.

My entire group were very impressed with their first visit to these areas. Another enjoyed benefit of backpacking in these mountains is being able to avoid the hassle and constrictions of having to obtain a permit.

One concerning factor, especially in the Sawtooths, is the ever-present and increasing signs of human waste, especially around the camping areas. We would have used the WAG bags but none were available in the box at the trailhead.

All of us owe a debt of gratitude to those who had the wisdom and courage to protect this marvelous area. It would be a shame if the popularity of the area results in it being degraded by those who love it.

Hi Avi,

I can certainly help you with that. I’ll email you separately with details about my Custom Trip Planning.

Thanks for any help you could provide.

Avi

Hi Jesse,

Definitely much too early. I’ve backpacked into the Sawtooths in late June and hit snow around 8,000 feet; in May the snow level will be down at or not much higher than many trailheads. You could reach some campgrounds in May (and not have much company at them) but even on trails that get more sunshine, you wouldn’t get far before reaching a shaded aspect and suddenly encountering three feet of snow that’s either treacherously icy or so soft you’re postholing into it. Wait until mid-July, at least.

Good luck.

Hi Dolph,

All of them! Seriously, there’s an extensive trail system with many options for distance and remoteness. Besides the suggestions above, I’d urge you to check out “this menu of all stories about backpacking in Idaho’s Sawtooths at The Big Outside and my e-guide “The Best Backpacking Trip in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains.”

I can give you a personalized trip plan for the kind of backpacking trip you tell me that you want to take there. See my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how I can help you.

Thanks for the question and good luck.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Lisa,

Thanks for buying my e-guide “The Best Backpacking Trip in Idaho’s Sawtooths Mountains.” That trip is 36 miles, as the description on my E-guides page indicates. I’m not sure what “loop” you’re referring to so I can’t answer that question. But I’m very familiar with the Sawtooths and I do believe the trip in that e-guide is the best in those beautiful mountains.

Read through the entire e-guide as you will see information on traveling, including shuttle services, bears and other animals, as well as on the peak season for backpacking. Late July is a good time to go there.

Have a great hike!

Thanks for any info you can share!
Lisa

Thanks, Matthew. You picked a great route through the Sawtooths. There’s much more exploring you could do, too, especially deeper into the interior of the range. Click here to learn how I can help you plan your next trip in the Sawtooths or any trip you read about at my blog.

Keep in touch!

Hi Nat,

Just reading the name Fishhook Creek sends a shudder through me. I have been through there on various occasions and it has never been pleasant and often miserable, to be honest. There is a use trail leading partway up the north side of that valley from the end of the maintained spur trail, but it disappears in the flats. Beyond that, as the terrain gets steeper, you run into very dense forest and some pretty bad bushwhacking, not to mention cliff bands and convoluted terrain that’s difficult at best to navigate, with short sight lines because you’re in forest.

The upper end of the Fishhook drainage is wonderful alpine terrain once you get above the forest. I’ve been through there multiple times to scramble some peaks. It’s rough off-trail hiking with no real use trails and challenging navigation, but in good weather you can often see where you want to go. There are three or four better ways to approach those peaks and hanging valleys that are much better than Fishhook and ways to connect existing trails on the perimeter of that area in order to hike a loop or traverse. The summits in that corner of the Sawtooths have amazing vistas and some are fun hikes with some third-class scrambling, all of them strenuous, big days, of course. You certainly won’t run into many people up there, if any.

With a good eye for reading a map for possible routes, you might be able to figure out where to go up there. But see my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how I could help you plan a route.

Thanks for the good question and keep in touch.

Hi Rhiannon,

Good for you. Both areas are certainly beautiful. Alice Lake is one of the busiest in the Sawtooths, especially on weekends in August and often into September, so you might consider that, depending on your exact dates. Baron and Cramer are also among the nicest lakes in the Sawtooths and I’ve seen Cramer busy on a weekend in August.

You can conceivably link up both areas in a four-day hike. Check out my e-guide “The Best Backpacking Trip in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains.”

And I can help you plan a customized itinerary based on your group. See my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how.

Thanks for the question and keep in touch.

Hi Kari,

Alpine Lake has established campsites and sees backpackers overnighting fairly regularly. I’m told there was even a pit toilet there but it may have been removed or be in disrepair. It’s good trails from Iron Creek Trailhead to Alpine Lake and that puts you in a position for a morning visit to Sawtooth Lake, when it’s often glassy and very pretty.

Have a good hike.

Hi Karen,

I get that question regarding many Western mountains, and the answer is basically the same as it is for the Sawtooths. In a typical year, the ground is mostly snow-covered above roughly 8,000 feet (depending on amount of sun exposure, meaning aspect and shade), making hiking difficult because you’ll posthole into soft snow, until around mid-July. I’ve backpacked in June before and it’s possible to hike over snow that’s firmly frozen in mornings (you may need traction devices on your boots) but it’s soft by late morning or afternoon, and the coverage gets spotty at some point in the calendar: two feet deep for 100 feet, bare ground for 40 feet, then two feet of snow again, that kind of thing. Hiking to and crossing passes can be dangerous because of the possibility of a long slide on snow or having to get over or around a snow cornice at the pass.

The two photos of Alice Lake (above) were taken on the same trip in the last week of June. You can see the lakes remain partly frozen and the ground mostly snow-covered.

Mid-July is generally the safe bet for finding trails mostly snow-free. It can open up earlier in years with less snow in winter and spring and warmer temps from spring into summer. That may happen this year, but it’s a little early now to know. I’d say you’re practically guaranteed to encounter a lot of snow in mid-June.

Check out these webcams in Stanley, Idaho, in the Sawtooth Valley, and you’ll get some sense of the current snow cover.

I hope that’s helpful.

Hi Oliver,

Good question, thanks for asking. I’ve used probably every commercial trail map of the Sawtooths and I do think the best one is the one you’re asking about, the National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Sawtooth National Recreation Area map no. 870. It has convenient mileage distances marked for trail segments and good contour details for backpacking or dayhiking.

However, online mapping services like caltopo and Mytopo are also good.

Have a good trip in the Sawtooths.

Michael

Hi Michael,

What do you think about the Nat Geo map? We are heading out to the Sawtooths in a couple weeks, but can’t find much commentary on that set.
Would also be curious if you have a recommended map for the Wallowa-Whitman NF? We have CalTopo, so can just print from that if all else fails.

Thank you.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Hi Brett,

Thanks for the question, I’m so glad you asked. You should get my downloadable e-guide to “The Best Backpacking Trip in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains,,” which answers your question and describes a primary route that’s five days and variations of that route ranging from four to seven days, and tells you all you need to know to plan and pull off that trip. It hits what I consider the very best area of the Sawtooths for mountain lakes, beautiful alpine cirques and high passes.

And of course, if you’d like my direct help with planning that trip, including answering all of your questions, see my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how I can do that for you.

Enjoy. This is the perfect time of year to hit the Sawtooths.

Michael

Hi Erin,

Thanks for the nice words about my blog, I appreciate that.

Late August is an ideal time in the Sawtooths. I’ve backpacked the areas on your planned loop and you’re definitely hitting some of the nicest lakes. I’d would honestly recommend a different route to you that would hit many of the best mountain lakes and high passes in the Sawtooths, but avoid some of the trails on your loop that I think aren’t as interesting.

I could help you plan out all of the details of an amazing hike in the Sawtooths. See my Custom Trip Planning page to learn how I can help you out.

Thanks for the question.

I am planning a backpacking trip for the end of August to the Sawtooths. I really love a good loop and prefer high mileage days (15-20).

My plan is Grandjean>sawtooth lake>redfish lake>hell roaring lake>Edna lake>baron lakes and back to Grandjean .

Im wondering if you have any recommendations for most scenic campsites along that route or would recommend any route changes to allow better scenery?

Thanks
Erin

Wonderful, thanks for saying so, George.

Hi Ed,

Thanks for asking. I use a couple of Sawtooths trail maps, neither of them perfect, but both adequate for hiking trails: the Earthwalk Press Sawtooth Wilderness map (found in many stores in Idaho and online), and the Sawtooth & White Cloud Mountains map from adventuremaps.net. I think the best complete hiking guide to the Sawtooths is the “Exploring the Sawtooths” guide from Idaho River Publications.

Thanks Michael. Your writing about the Middle Fork was influential, for sure.

Hi George,

Great plan to combine the Middle Fork of the Salmon and the Sawtooths in one trip! Not long ago I posted my story (perhaps you saw it) about my family’s second trip on the Middle Fork, and we already have dates for our next Middle Fork trip. It’s an exceptional adventure.

Yes, the Alice-Toxaway loop is a super three-day family hike with excellent campsites at Alice, Twin, and Toxaway lakes. Hell Roaring is a beautiful lake, but the trail to it is roughly five miles of mundane hiking through forest, and the camping at Hell Roaring is wooded and just okay. Imogene Lake, a bit farther up the trail past Hell Roaring, is gorgeous and has excellent campsites.

Boise has many great places for food downtown and on the edge of downtown. One of my family’s favorite has long been Highlands Hollow, just off Bogus Basin Road, which has good burgers and other reasonably priced meals and the best fries in town (although Boise Fry Company downtown is also really good). Many good choices. Walk around the downtown and explore, you’ll like it.

The road trip from Boise north to Stanley and then Salmon is one of the most scenic drives in the West, especially along the Salmon River from Stanley to Salmon. The loop from Boise to Stanley and then south through Ketchum/Sun Valley and Fairfield back to Boise is also very nice. Check out idahohotsprings.com.

In early August my wife and daughters (ages 14 and 11) and I are rafting the Middle Fork of the Salmon, and I’ve built in a couple days for backpacking in the Sawtooths, a range I’ve never explored before. The Alice-Toxaway Loop seems like the obvious 3-day family trip, or maybe just basecamping at one of those lakes. Do you have any extra thoughts about particularly great camping spots at Alice or Toxaway or elsewhere in the neighborhood? Hell Roaring Lake looks like a good, mellower option but it seems that the trail in is relatively mundane and the lake is a bit buggy; any thoughts on that?

Also, I’ve found that the frontcountry experience can do a lot to frame up a good backcountry experience. We’ll be flying in and out of Boise. Do you have any favorite places in Boise for tacos or burgers? Or maybe some tips for a road trip between Boise and Salmon, ID?

Thanks for your insights, and keep up the great writing!

George

Great suggestions, Zachary, thanks.

I would say that most guidebooks I read took the Edith Lake route to Toxaway Lake after descending Imogene Divide. Instead we stayed on the high trail and went up Sand Mountain Pass, then dropped to Rendezvous Lake/Lake 8861′ which was an awesome campsite and had spectacular colors at sunset. If I would do it again I would basecamp at Imogene Lake and take a couple days to explore the high lakes below Payette Peak and Mt. Cramer. I hear Profile Lake is awesome.